Ringworm in Cats : Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention

Ringworm in Cats : Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention

Ringworm is a fungal infection that develops on the top layer of skin. It can be a big problem in multiple animal households as well as shelters and kennels. It is actually caused by a fungal organism, not a worm. Ringworm is harmless but highly contagious to humans, especially children, the elderly and anyone with a compromised immune system. If you suspect you or your cat has ringworm it is important to seek medical or veterinary treatment sooner than later.


Ringworm infections frequently appear as a dry, grey colored, scaly patch, but can take on any appearance and mimic many different skin diseases. The fungus lives in the outer layers of skin, hair shafts, and toe nails. It invades the hair follicles damaging the actual hair itself. The hairs become fragile and break easily.

Some lesions may begin to heal and re-grow hair in the center, creating a circular lesion of hair loss, surrounding a central area where the hair may or may not be darker colored than normal. As the infection progresses, more and more hair may be lost and more skin lesions may appear. After appropriate treatment, the hair will grow back though sometimes discolored.

Ringworm may result in secondary bacterial infections of the skin causing destruction of the hair follicles-so that hair may not grow back. It is important to initiate treatment early.

Cats can become infected with the fungus by contact with other infected animals, infected people, or contaminated soil.


If you suspect your cat has ringworm, it’s important to go straight to your veterinarian, as diagnosis often requires a thorough clinical examination and testing. Diagnosis is made by specific tests for ringworm, including skin scrapings, ultraviolet light observation, fungal cultures, and sometimes a biopsy.


Treatment may involve shampoos, ointments, creams, and/or systemic medications. Your veterinarian will determine the best treatment protocol for your cat based on your cat’s physical condition and status. Ringworm is contagious to humans and caution should be used when handling cats diagnosed with ringworm. If you or any member of your family develops skin lesions after handling your infected cat, you should consult your family physician.

Medications – Oral medications commonly used to treat ringworm are griseofulvicin and itraconazole. Both of these medications must be given with food and typically must be continued for 1-2 months. They are not safe for use in pregnant animals as both of these drugs can cause birth defects in unborn animals.

Topical Treatment – Lime sulfur is frequently used as a topical treatment. This is a dip which is applied to your cat’s hair coat after bathing. The dip remains on the hair coat and should not be rinsed off. Caution must be taken in using this product. It must be diluted accurately, according to the labeling instructions, in order to avoid toxicity (poisoning). You should also be aware that lime sulfur dip will stain your cat’s white hair yellow for a time. It will also stain clothing and jewelry. It has a very strong odor associated with it (it smells like rotten eggs).

Anti-Fungals – Other products sometimes recommended are shampoos, creams, or ointments containing anti-fungal medications, such as miconazole or ketoconazole. Tame iodine (not tincture of iodine) also has some efficacy as a anti-fungal agent.

Antibiotics – If secondary bacterial infections are present, antibiotics will be necessary to treat the pyoderma (skin infection), in addition to treating the fungal lesions.

Cleaning – It is also necessary to clean the environment concurrent with treating your cat for ringworm, as the fungal organisms can be shed in the environment and provide an additional source of infection. Carpets should be vacuumed thoroughly and the vacuum cleaner bags disposed of in the trash. Bedding and blankets should be discarded and replaced.

Infected cats remain contagious for several weeks after treatment is initiated. It is important for treatments to be performed properly and for adequate lengths of time. Your veterinarian will help you determine how long to continue treatment. Sometimes, repeating cultures of the skin and hair are necessary to insure that your cat is free of disease and the discontinuation of treatment is safe.


  • To keep your cat free of ringworm, it’s best to keep him indoors. If you keep your healthy cat indoors all the time, you eliminate the risk of him contacting ringworm from another cat.
  • If your cat must go outdoors, check him often for symptoms. Try to keep your cat from coming into contact with stray cats. Strays tend to have a higher risk for ringworm because they often lack proper nutrition.
  • If you bring home a new pet, make sure the cat or dog does not have any lesions on any part of his body. Ask for a vet check before bringing your pet home to make sure there are no health issues.
  • Regularly clean pet blankets and other bedding from your cats preferred areas. Spray the bedding with a mixture of water and bleach (a one-part to ten-part mix). Clean kennels, combs, brushes and any animal clothing too.
  • Regularly dispose of any hairs from your pet’s grooming brush
  • Remove skin cells and hair from your home by regularly vacuuming the house. Swiffer mops, vacuums and dust rags used to collect dust and spores work effectively. If your heater blows hot air, vacuum out the vents and have your air filter changed.
  • The fungal spores can live quite a while in the environment so an important part of treatment involves thorough cleaning. Steam-clean carpets, tile floors and others with a damp mop to avoid causing the spores to become airborne. Always bleach mop heads afterward.

Cats who are more Susceptible

Ringworm is more likely to occur in younger cats who are under 12 months of age, and senior cats over 10 years old. Kittens are at greater risk of infection due to their immature immune systems and because they tend to be less adequate with grooming. Adult cats have had time to build up a natural immunity to the fungus, which makes them more resistant to infection.

Cats that suffer from feline leukemia virus, feline immunodeficiency virus, are undergoing chemotherapy or on long-term steroids are also more sensitive to ringworm.

Cats with long hair are more susceptible to ringworm than short-haired cats, mainly because the fungus can easily become trapped deeper within the fur.

Cats who are stressed, run down due to sickness, malnourished or in crowded conditions such as animal shelters are at increased risk.


Ringworm in cats can be a frustrating infection to eradicate but remember, that in most cases it is not life-threatening. Avoidance is always better than treatment, particularly with ringworm. Keep in mind that even if you have taken precautions in prevention, cats can be carriers.

Intestinal Parasites in Cats : Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention

Intestinal Parasites in Cats : Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention

Cats maybe good at self-maintenance but can become hosts to many intestinal parasites. Intestinal parasites are a common problem in cats, with prevalence rates as high as 45 percent. The signs associated with parasites in cats are nonspecific, such as a dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, a pot-bellied appearance, bloody stools, loss of appetite and pale mucous membranes. Vomiting, diarrhea, and dehydration, caused by intestinal parasites, will deplete your cat and make him more susceptible to other infections and diseases, as well as robbing your cat of good health. Some parasites can even infect humans.


At this time, there is no one de-wormer that can eliminate all species of parasites. Therefore an accurate diagnosis from your cat’s veterinarian is necessary to treat your cat properly. Diagnosis is usually made from a microscopic examination of a fresh stool sample (passed less than 12 hours ago) or, in the case of tapeworms, by seeing the segments in the stool. It is suggested that your veterinarian test your cat’s stool periodically to make certain that your cat is not harboring any parasites. It is also a good idea to visually examine your cat’s stool for signs of tapeworm segments or other abnormalities (diarrhea, bloody stools, excessively hard stools, etc) which may indicate that your cat needs medical attention.

The following are brief descriptions of common intestinal parasites seen in cats (and dogs), detailing the symptoms, diagnosis, treatment, prevention, as well as the risk of human transmission.


  • This is a common worm of puppies and kittens, but can be seen in dogs and cats of any age.
  • Diagnosis is made from a microscopic examination of the feces or from a description of the worm, if it is seen in the stool or vomit.
  • Symptoms will vary from none to vomiting and diarrhea, and abdominal swelling.
  • Transmission to adult dogs and cats occurs by infected feces contaminating the yard. As a result, prevention is accomplished by isolating your cat from infected feces of other animals.
  • Your cat’s veterinarian will prescribe the proper treatment for your cat. Follow directions carefully when giving the medication. For dogs, many of the heart-worm preventives routinely used, such as Heartguard Plus, Interceptor, and Revolution, also aid in preventing roundworm infection.
  • Transmission to humans is rare but young children can develop “visceral larval migrans” by eating dirt contaminated with feces.


  • This is also a common worm of puppies and kittens but is seen with equal frequency in adults. This parasite sucks your cat’s blood and can cause severe anemia.
  • Diagnosis is made from a microscopic examination of your cat’s stool.
  • Symptoms will vary from none to blood in the stool (dark tar-colored stool) with diarrhea.
  • Your veterinarian will prescribe the proper medication to rid your cat of hookworms. Severe cases may need a transfusion and hospitalization.
  • Transmission to adult animals occurs by infected feces contaminating the grass or soil. Prevention, therefore, requires that your cat be kept away from contaminated areas. Many of the commonly used heart-worm preventive medications, such as Heartguard Plus, Interceptor and Revolution, aid in the prevention of hookworms also.
  • Transmission to humans is uncommon and usually shows up as skin lesions.


  • This common worm affects both dogs and cats.
  • Transmission occurs when your cat grooms himself and “eats” a flea, or when he hunts and eats small animals, such as rabbits, squirrels, etc. The intermediate form of the tapeworm is inside the flea’s body (or the body of the rabbit or squirrel) and it then attaches to the intestine and begins to grow “segments”. In about 3 weeks, these segments begin to pass in the stool. They are approximately ¼ to ½ inch long, flat, and white. After a short time in the air, they dry up to resemble a small yellow flat seed.
  • Diagnosis is made from seeing these segments on the stool or around your cat’s anal region. They will sometimes show up on microscopic fecal exam as well.
  • Your veterinarian will advise you which medication is best to rid your cat of the tapeworms. However, available tapeworm treatments will not prevent further infection if your cat is exposed again. The only prevention is strict flea control and restricted hunting activity.
  • There is no direct transmission from dog or cat to a human (although people can be infected by eating contaminated meat).


  • This parasite is not a worm. It is a very tiny single-celled parasite that can live in the intestines of dogs, cats, and humans.
  • It is seen most commonly in dogs coming out of kennel-type situations (cat stores, shelters, dog pounds, etc.) but its incidence is increasing.
  • Symptoms include intermittent or continuous diarrhea, weight loss, depression, and loss of appetite.
  • Diagnosis is made from a very fresh fecal specimen.
  • A surprising number of affected animals are infected but are negative in these tests, even with multiple examinations. As a result, this parasite is often treated without a confirming diagnosis.
  • Prevention involves careful disposal of all fecal material and cleaning contaminated areas.
  • Humans can become infected with Giardia, so special care must be taken to wash hands and utensils.


  • This is also a single-celled parasite.
  • It is seen primarily in puppies and kittens, although debilitated adults can also be affected.
  • Transmission occurs by eating the infection stage of the parasite. It then reproduces in the intestinal tract causing no symptoms in mild cases to bloody diarrhea in severely affected cats.
  • Diagnosis is made from a fresh stool sample.
  • Treatment varies greatly depending on your cat’s condition. Severely affected cats may need hospitalization.
  • Prevention involves disposal of all stools and cleaning your cat’s living area.
  • Human transmission is uncommon but can occur.


There are many different medications available for treating intestinal parasites. The proper choice will depend on the type of parasite present, the risk of re-infection, and the physical condition of your cat. Therefore, your cat’s veterinarian should be consulted to recommend the proper medication for treatment and discuss the appropriate treatment intervals with you. These will vary depending on the type of parasite present and the severity of the infection. Many of the monthly heart-worm preventatives also help prevent certain types of intestinal parasites. These include roundworms and hookworms, although some of the heart-worm preventatives can also help control tapeworms or whip-worms. All de-worming medicines have the potential to produce side effects and should only be used as needed and under proper conditions. Your veterinarian will discuss the proper usage of these medications with you.

Most puppies and kittens are infected before birth and, for this reason, your veterinarian may recommend de-worming at a very young age. If hookworms are suspected, your veterinarian may advise de-worming or checking your puppies or kittens stools starting as early as 2-3 weeks of age. More than one treatment is often necessary in order to eliminate these parasites.


Parasites are very common in cats, but can be prevented. Prevention begins with good sanitation like daily litter box scooping and cleaning with a disinfectant. It is also important to avoid raw meat diets, and keeping fleas at bay.

Bad Breath in Cats : Causes, Treatment and Prevention

Bad Breath in Cats : Causes, Treatment and Prevention

Bad breath in cats is like human bad breath and is usually caused by the build up of bacteria in the mouth. With cats, the bacteria that sets off the bad breath is linked with tartar build up on the teeth. Tartar is a white substance made up of bacteria, food particles and minerals and tends to coat the teeth and then hardened. While you might not expect your cat to have minty fresh breath, a foul mouth odor can be a red flag.


Tartar – Feline bad breath is typically caused by buildup of tartar on the teeth. Just like in dogs and humans, tartar on the teeth promotes the escalation of oral bacteria that produces foul smelling sulfur compounds. Even though tartar hasn’t mounted up enough yet to cause cat bad breath, make sure that a kitten’s gums and teeth are tartar free or that there’s no other inflammation there. If there are signs of tartar, your cat may need to see a veterinarian.

Caught Food – Something caught in your cat’s teeth or under her gums can cause foul odors in the mouth. Food or a strand of hair or string, for example, can get lodged in the little nooks and crannies between teeth and can decompose, soon infecting the surrounding tissue.

Respiratory Infection  –  Cats can have bacterial or viral infections of the nasal passages, throat and lungs, just like humans. Unfortunately, these infections can promote the development of more bacteria and can lead to feline bad breath. Likewise, the bad breath problem of the cat will immediately subside once the respiratory infection that went with the bad breath is finally given relief.

Feline Acne – Another cause of feline bad breath, specific to cats, is feline acne. If you see black spots or bumps on your cat’s chin, then he has feline acne. These black spots are accumulated emissions from the cat’s glands; the inflamed area can be proliferated by bacteria thus producing bad breath. Feline acne can be treated with an antiseptic cleanser or topical shampoo.

Medical Illness – In some cases, bad breath in cat may indicate sickness. There may be problem with the cat’s organs like the kidney which gives out an unusual smell on breath. Diabetes can also cause breath to have a fruity odor. Assessing with a veterinarian can help in ensuring that the cat’s bad breath is not caused by any serious illness.


To treat cat bad breath, simply take off the tartar that has accumulated between the cat’s teeth. Also, there are pet foods which are formulated to produce a mechanical friction that could scrape off tartar, sometimes enzymes are just added to the foods and it help in dissolving the tartar.

If for instance that the tartar on cat’s teeth are severe, you can consider giving the cat a professional cleaning schedule. Once, you’re cat is tartar free, bad breath should disappear.


Once you have determined the cause of your cat’s bad breath with your veterinarian, you might want to takes steps to prevent the problem from recurring. Regardless of the underlying problem, follow your veterinarian’s instructions carefully. Here are some ways to keep your cat’s mouth fresh:

Regular brushing:

Because the most common cause of bad breath in cats is dental issues, regularly brushing your cat’s teeth is the most efficient way to prevent halitosis. It is recommended to brush them daily but try for three times a week.

Limit wet food:

Avoid an exclusive diet of wet food. Cut up chunks of human grade beef, budget cuts such as chuck steak are perfect. This gives your cat a chance to really chew the food, keeping his jaw and bones strong.

Raw chicken necks or wings:

These can be a great way to reduce plaque and tartar formation.  One or two chicken necks or wings twice a week is recommended. Never feed your cat cooked bones of any kind as they are more brittle which can cause them to splinter.

Premium Pet Dental Spray:

This Premium Dental Spray eliminates TARTAR, PLAQUE and GUM DISEASE. While most products only freshen breath, this alcohol-free pet breath spray and plaque & tartar remover reduces the risk of oral disease by providing daily natural plaque and tarter control for your cats.This spray works on contact and your cat will actually enjoy the taste.



Cat dental care is made easier with these treats. This treat effectively cleans teeth, freshens breath, and fights tartar in your cats mouth. Not only will it clean your cat’s teeth it will do so while providing complete nutrition, vitamins and minerals, with a taste your cat will enjoy. These treats also come in several flavors and sizes.



A complete examination should be done if your cat’s bad breath continues after treatments and prevention steps are taken. Many conditions related to bad breath can be serious, and early diagnosis and treatment may be able to slow down or reverse the underlying cause.

Why Spay or Neuter Your Cat

Why Spay or Neuter Your Cat

Each day over 70,000 kittens and puppies are born in the United States. As a result, over 5 million animals are euthanized, every year because there are no homes for them. Cities and counties spend millions of dollars to control and take care of unwanted animals. Behavioral problems are one of the main reasons animals are given to shelters but many orphans are the result of  breeding by free-roaming, unaltered cats. The more cats that we spay or neuter will result in fewer that will have to be destroyed.

Spaying and neutering can improve your cat’s health and give them a longer life to spend with you. Spaying (ovario-hysterectomy) is the surgical removal of the reproductive organs (ovaries, uterus, fallopian tubes) of the female animal. Neutering (orchectomy or castration) is the surgical removal of the reproductive glands (testes) of the male animal. The outer is left, only the testes are removed.

When Should it be Done?

Females and males should be spayed or neutered by 5-6 months of age depending on the breed and size of the cat. Currently some clinics are performing surgeries on animals as young as 6 weeks of age. As this procedure becomes more common, perhaps it will be available in all areas. Older animals can be done as long as they are in good health. All sterilization surgery should be performed under general anesthesia by a licensed veterinarian.

Spaying before having a first litter or heat cycle is usually a simpler procedure. Heat cycles in cats start as early as 5 months and occur every 3-4 weeks during spring through early fall. The gestation period for cats is 63 days. Female cats can become pregnant again as soon as 10 days after giving birth, even while still nursing their first litter.

Female cats can be spayed when in heat or pregnant but consult your veterinarian on how far along your cat is in her pregnancy. Most veterinarians do not like to spay a pregnant female due to stress on the animal, also the surgery can take longer and therefore cost more.

Benefits of Spaying and Neutering

Spayed cats no longer have the urge to roam to look for a mate. This results in he or she staying home and having less chance of being injured or worse! Spayed and neutered cats are less likely to bite. Unaltered cats tend to have more behavior and temper problems than those that have been spayed or neutered.

Neutering your male cat prevents testicular tumors and may prevent prostate problems as they get older.  Because neutered cats are less likely to roam, the threat of abscesses caused by bites and diseases transmitted by fighting are greatly reduced.  Males neutered early in life are less aggressive toward other males and are not distracted by females in heat. Therefore, a neutered male will be less tempted to leave your property and roam the streets searching for a mate. Neutered males also are less likely to mark (spray) every thing in his outside territory with his urine, as well as inside the house.

In Females, spaying decreases the likeliness of breast cancer and the rate goes down to almost zero if the spaying is done before the first heat cycle. Spay surgery also eliminates the heat cycle, mood swings and undesirable behaviors, and the attraction of all available males to your yard. Female cats in heat often cry continuously and show nervous behavior and attract unwanted males.

Myths Associated with Spaying and Neutering

  • My cat will get fat and lazy

Not true! Cats that become fat and lazy after being altered usually are overfed and do not get enough exercise. In general, some breeds as well as indoor cats, are not as active as others. A low calorie diet for indoor cats and a feeding schedule could help.

  • My cat’s personality will change

Any change will be for the better. After being altered, your cat will be less aggressive toward other cats, have a better personality, and will be less likely to wander. Spraying (urine marking), which is often done by cats to mark their territory, diminishes or ceases after he or she is altered.

  • We can sell kittens and make money

Well-known breeders are lucky if they break even on raising purebred litters. Consider the costs of raising such a litter which includes stud fees, vaccinations, health care costs, extra food for mom and food for the litter. If your pet is not a purebred then the odds against you in finding homes. If you do find a home will it be a good one for the kitten? Or when the cute kitten stage is over will she be tossed out in the cold to fend for herself? If you can’t find homes for them are you going to just dump your problem on someone else?

  • My children need to experience our pet giving birth

Don’t use your pets to teach your children about the birds and the bees. They too need privacy when giving birth and any unnecessary intrusion can cause the mother to become seriously upset. This can result in an unwillingness to care for the offspring or cause injury to you, your children or to your cat. Some cats can become very protective of their new offspring so use caution.

  • I am concerned about my cat undergoing anesthesia

Placing a cat under anesthesia is a very common concern of owners. There is always  a slight risk involved. Many veterinarians use equipment that monitors heart and respiratory rates during surgery to ensure that their patients are doing well under anesthesia. Just remember the medical benefits of having your cat spayed or neutered far outweigh the slight risk involved with undergoing anesthesia.

  • Is the Cost Worth it?

Yes! This is a one-time expense that can dramatically improve your cat’s quality of life and in the long run preventing expensive veterinarian bills that arise is you do not spay or neuter. Having your cat spayed or neutered is a part of being a responsible owner and you are helping to alleviate the cat overpopulation problem.

If you are having trouble affording a spay or neuter procedure, check out these resources:

Local Animal Shelter

Your local shelter may operate a clinic or know of a local clinic that offers subsidized services. It may also offer vouchers to have your pet spayed or neutered at a lower cost by local cooperating veterinarians. Locate your local shelter by going here.


Your local veterinarian may be able to work out special financing options for you. Remember, even if you pay full price for the procedures, spaying or neutering is a one-time cost with a lifetime of benefits. Spaying or neutering your pet not only helps curb pet overpopulation but also reduces your pet’s risk of succumbing to many health problems. It remains one of the best bargains in animal health care. Locate a veterinarian in your area by going here.


SPAY/USA is a national spay/neuter referral service for the public regarding low cost spay/neuter programs or they may be able to direct you to subsidized spay/neuter clinics in your area. SPAY/USA can be reached at 1-800-248-SPAY (1-800-248-7729) or you can visit their website, here.  You will receive information about the nearest low-cost program and will be sent a certificate as proof you have gone through the SPAY/USA network. They have a multitude of programs and clinics nationwide.

Friends of Animals

Check out the Friends of Animals spay/neuter website, and there you can find a list of participating veterinarians in your area, based on your zip code, for a low cost spay/neuter certificate.

Love That Cat

Low Cost or Free Spay/Neuter Programs in the United States.


In one year, a female cat and her off spring can produce 48 cats. The second year the same female cat and her off spring and their off spring can produce 288 cats. The third year, multiply that by 12 which equals 3,456 cats. That is just from one female cat! The only solution to this problem is to do your part and spay or neuter your cat.

Outdoor Cat Enclosures and Cages

Outdoor Cat Enclosures and Cages

Outdoor cat enclosures (or catio’s) protect your kitty with proper shelter, whether it be a variety of cages, a mini house or condo for them to sprawl in. Building or buying the right type of outdoor cat enclosures can be a fantastic way to give your cat a massive area in which they can play, explore and  generally enjoy themselves.  These types of enclosures are going to guarantee that your cat can experience the freedom and joy of being outside, but without you having to worry about anything bad happening to them.  The problem with letting your cat outside in general is just that you don’t know where they’re going to go, if they could get hurt, etc. But with outdoor cat enclosures, you can ensure kitty gets to go on their own adventures, but you can also guarantee that nothing bad can befall them.


If you are in the market for an outdoor cat enclosure, one of the first things that you want to consider is size.  You want to ensure that your enclosure is big enough, for how ever many cats you have, to explore and making sure they are able to have some fun in the outdoors, even if caged.  That usually means purchasing a structure that is quite tall, and also wide. The bigger the cage, the more space to provide plenty of room for running around, as well as exploring in general.  By providing a lot of play space, you keep the cats stimulated, which makes for a much happier and more content life.

There is more to an outdoor cat enclosure than just the structure itself. You may want to think about the kind of things that you are going to be putting inside.  Place items like perches, scratching posts, grass patches, as well as ramps, inside, means your cats can run and climb all around the cage. Cats love running, climbing and playing on all sorts of surfaces.  It’s a good idea to ensure that your cats have plenty of play room, so that they can go wherever they want and that means bigger is better. When placing perches and surfaces, make sure they are easy enough to scale. Surfaces made from materials like mountain grass or outdoor carpet are ideal, because they can rip and grip, but they are also suitable for outdoor use.

Something else to consider is if your outdoor cat enclosures will be connected to the house or not.  If the structure is large enough, you can have it attached right to the backdoor of your house, so that your cats can get in and out with ease, and whenever they want.  That way, you can ensure your outdoor play place is easy to access, and convenient for your cats to use.

Types of Enclosures

Window Enclosures

Cat owners that live in small apartments or do not have the space to build an enclosure in a large outdoor space may opt for a window enclosure. These are very diverse structures, they can be built by hand with materials such as chicken wire, nylon screen, aluminum, or wire storage cubes. You can buy pre-made designs to build a cat window box, which makes the process easily and customization and less expensive. You can also find these online by clicking here.

Tents or Playpens

Netted outdoor cat enclosures are portable, easy to fold, pack up, and take on the go, and they also do not take up much space. Sometimes they are called cat enclosure tents. These enclosures are ideal for those who do not want to set up permanent structures outside their houses, want to be able to move the enclosures around easily, or are maybe on a budget. They are also ideal for people who only own one cat, since these tents may get crowded. Cat enclosure tents are also ideal for apartment dwellers because they are small enough to fit on a balcony and can be packed away so that the patio can be used by others when the cat isn’t. If you are on the move, currently moving, camping, or taking an extended road trip, and have no choice but to take your poor cat along, an outdoor cat enclosure would be a great thing to bring along, as it can allow your cat a space of his own to move around. The biggest downside to outdoor cat enclosures is that there is always the chance that they could get blown by the wind, torn, or otherwise tampered with causing your precious cat to escape. purchasing one that is sturdy and has excellent customer reviews like this is best.

Attached Enclosures

A cat enclosure is best attached to your house with access to it from a window typically in a room you don’t use much so it can stay open. This saves you the trouble of wrangling your cat out doors into the cage and he can come and go as he pleases. These enclosures will offer 24/7 outdoor access for your cat and they will love it! You may have to consider a do it yourself type of enclosure or customize a pre-made wood cage.


Constructed Wood Cages

For those who really want to splurge, there are companies out there who design special outdoor enclosures for your cats that are almost like small gazebos into which you can actually step through a human-sized door. These companies also commonly design outdoor enclosures for larger animals, such as birds, zoo animals, and dogs.  Though these constructions are both permanent and expensive, you may want to choose these if you have several cats and want to give them something very large to enjoy outside. If you do decide to go with one of these, consider getting one that matches the general architecture of your own home or can be accommodating. This will make the large enclosures look less strange in your backyard.

DIY Cat Enclosure

Outdoor Cat Enclosures and CagesBuilding outdoor enclosures from scratch isn’t for everyone and it requires certain skills to guarantee that it will be able to stand the test of time and the change of seasons. After all, you don’t want your kitty to painfully fall to the ground the first time he jumps into one of the cage’s perches, right? However, DIY enclosures usually happen to be the cheaper option as prices for ready-made ones start in the thousands, going higher based on coverage and design. So before you think of setting up an enclosure, consider how much time and money you can allow for the project. Always consider how many cats will be using it, how much of their days will potentially be spent in it, and what sort of activities they will engage in while inside. This will help you decide whether purchasing pre-constructed sets will be worth it or if you or someone you know can build it using any of your selected materials. Most Do-it-yourself plans are designed to be crafted with wooden planks, plastic boards, and wire panels for these enclosures.


When you are ready to buy the right cat enclosure you may discover most local pet stores do not carry them. You will need to do a little research or consider shopping online.  Through retailers like Amazon.com you can find all sorts of enclosures that are ideal for any home.  That way you can choose the perfect outdoor cat enclosures that you know your cat will adore.